"Following the closure of the Table, Tacoma’s famed James Beard-nominated restaurant, this “Franco-Tacoman” brasserie is the new project of two Table alumni: former chef de cuisine Craig Tronset and sommelier Trevor Hamilton. Also a veteran of Seattle’s Bastille (RIP), Tronset has toned his chops down a little on this accessible French-ish menu, full of updated countryside faves. The mushroom cassoulet with a sunny egg and the sablefish with charred radicchio and black garlic molasses are comfort food as all hell, while the croque madame and the skillet-fried pork collar with white beans and za’atar is a page out of Jacques Pepin’s diary. It’s all complemented by Hamilton’s thoughtful, mostly French wine program; he also runs the Crowfriends Wine Club from Corbeau. Meanwhile Megan Henson is doing fascinating things behind the bar, e.g., the Dr. Jacoby (Condesa Oaxacan gin, pear brandy, génépy, Cocchi Americano, orange bitters, lemon oil)." - Meg van Huygen