"Polished Mediterranean project from Michael Schulson that debuted in December on the ground floor of the Laurel, marked by a ridiculously big Cerulean-blue door off Sansom Street. The lengthy dining room was packed just past 5 p.m., with rows of well-dressed diners “snacking on silver saucers of dips for days,” and vegetable-heavy mezzes like eggplant, cucumber salad, and smoked beets adding pops of color to a maximalist space. Its daily happy hour (4 p.m. to 6 p.m.) is a clear draw — the author’s quartet of lamb-stuffed Turkish dumplings surrounded in tomato sauce ($7) “were half the price as usual.” Seating is at a premium: leather-backed stools are “lined up here like sardines,” the curved bar in the back offers solo seats that disappear quickly, and even lesser-desirable window-facing spots were all claimed by departure time. Menu highlights from chef Ryan Lloyd include Moroccan meatballs, tuna tartare, an array of kebabs paired with pilaf, and Tunisian lamb shank; charcoal-grilled mains such as branzino ($63) are pricey but noteworthy because the price includes mezze, pilaf, and soft serve. Hospitable, attentive servers in nautical stripes contribute to a Grecian-getaway vibe at a bar “sparkling with glassy emerald tones.” One nearby diner even audibly dissed the whole fish, saying she doesn’t do a dish “that stares back.”" - Tierney Plumb