"At Modan, fine dining doesn’t take itself too seriously. The shiny new Japanese restaurant from Nobu alum Micheole “Chico” Dator swings open on Friday, November 8, wowing McLean diners with standout omakase offerings, a rolling caviar cart, and decidedly light-hearted take on some very serious ingredients (1788 Chain Bridge Road, McLean, Virginia). Housed on the second floor of the Heming Luxury Apartments, Modan is a gleaming homage to modern Japanese cuisine. Alongside fresh sashimi and robata-grilled skewers, diners will also find crispy nori taco shells filled with sweet onion salsa and a choice of wagyu beef, lobster, tuna, salmon, or cauliflower. Dumplings also get an upgrade with wagyu beef and freshly shaved truffle, while dry aged lamb chops are complemented by a spicy miso and shichimi, a traditional Japanese spice mix. Modan coaxes much of the flavor from its ingredients from a set of dry aging refrigerators, displayed proudly along the restaurant’s back walls. From wagyu to fatty tuna to red snapper, a range of proteins are carefully aged anywhere from 7 to 14 days to deepen flavor, add tenderness, and highlight natural umami. “Dry aging helps naturally occurring enzymes to break down protein, removing moisture while maintaining fat, which helps achieve a milder yet more concentrated flavor, and a more buttery texture,” explains Chico. And nowhere is the restaurant’s dry aging program on greater display than at its eight-person omakase counter, the true star of the show. Created in concert with chef Ray Lee of San Francisco’s Akiko’s and Friends Only, the progressive meal takes diners on a delicious educational journey. “Our goal was to create a modern omakase that engages and helps tell a story to our diners,” says Lee. “Whereas traditional omakase experiences are very quiet and reserved, we wanted our experience to be fun and educational, and introduce western diners to a Japanese tradition.” For example, while aging fish is a common technique in Japan, it has only recently gained popularity stateside. “Most of our fish is carefully conditioned,” explains Lee. “We keep our tunas, for example, sitting at a temperature that is as close as possible to its natural environment — very cold, with very high humidity.” Once properly aged, much of the fish is smoked with hay, a traditional smoking element used in Japanese cuisine for its milder taste. The omakase offering changes on a daily basis, featuring everything from Hokkaido sujiko, a kind of salmon roe available only during the fall; or an Ensui uni, which preserves its freshness by being packaged in the saltwater from which the uni was originally harvested. Given its highly experimental nature, Chico and Lee are treating their omakase counter as a sort of research and development desk, toying with new combinations and ingredients that — if well received — may just make it onto the main menu. “Coming out to dine is really meant to be an experience,” says Chico. “In this day and age, you can get good food from anywhere — even delivered to your own home. So if you’re going to take the time to come out to a restaurant, it really has to be fun and unique.” This ethos is evident throughout the restaurant. Chico wheels around a caviar cart stocked with hand rolls packed with various fish eggs. The beverage program highlights Japanese ingredients for playful twists on classic cocktails. Modan’s take on the lychee martini is almost Vesper-like in its preparation, while the King of Kaiju is a tropical milk clarified margarita. For those looking for a more unctuous cocktail, try the Japanese A5 wagyu-washed Benkyō Old Fashioned. Even the five bathrooms — rarely a true standout at a dining institution — are unique, each of which are decorated with a different theme (including cherry blossoms, Hello Kitty, and anime). “We’re all just here to have fun,” says Lee. “Because if you’re having fun, it no longer feels like work.”" - Lulu Chang
