"In Bywater I opened Origen, a bistro offering two menus (all-day and brunch) built around Venezuelan dishes: for brunch I recommend ordering a range of small plates such as cheesy tequeños with black beans and rice, tostones topped with a fried egg and avocados, and cachapas (Venezuelan corn pancakes) served with cracklings on the side — the cachapas develop a delicate sweet-savory flavor when the corn hits the flat-top grill. The all-day menu goes deeper with Venezuelan-style ceviches, a cheese fondue served with mini cachapas and arepas for dipping, chupe (a hangover-curing chicken noodle soup), and a “warm salad” of grilled peppers and zucchinis toasted with olive oil and cilantro. I also serve carne en vara — meat skewered on a spit and roasted over a green-wood-fueled open fire for eight to ten hours so it comes out very tender, smoky, and red like corned beef — and offer several vegan options including grilled eggplant, pineapple, and a cauliflower steak that’s one of my personal favorites." - Justine Jones