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"Tucked into the stretch of Macdonald Avenue near 23rd Street, I discovered an ambitious little takeout operation named 2207 (“twenty-two zero seven”) that opened in June with no fanfare and virtually no external signage — for a while Yelp reviewers even thought it was called “Infrared Charbroiler,” the visible sign that actually references the chef’s favored high-heat appliance. Run as a family operation by a young Korean-American chef who goes by Daniel (he cooks) and his mother (she’s the cashier), it’s open four days a week for lunch only, isn’t on Grubhub or DoorDash, and offers only one long communal standing table for dine-in. The concise diner-style signboard belies a surprisingly eclectic, serious menu: a Korean-inflected kalbi banh mi featuring charcoal-grilled short ribs in a homemade yakiniku-style marinade layered with cucumber rounds, grilled onions and peppers, and crisp lettuce (also available bone-in over rice); a whole fried chicken leg inspired by Popeyes and Jollibee whose outrageous crunch comes from using okonomiyaki flour (about $8 with waffle fries or a salad); an enormous burger made with Flannery beef; and seasonal specials such as grilled branzino with sauce vierge, Brentwood corn and Early Girl tomatoes from the farmers’ market, and a wild-rice salad topped with big-ass grilled scallops. Stacks of cookbooks near the entrance, including the Manresa cookbook and Roy Choi’s L.A. Son, underline the kitchen’s seriousness of purpose. Nearly everything on the menu is under $12, the customer base is mostly neighborhood regulars (construction crews, barbershop workers, City Hall staff), and Daniel says he intends to keep 2207 a neighborhood joint — he has no immediate plans to expand beyond weekday lunch service, though he’d like to offer breakfast someday and use the lovely back patio for occasional special dinners." - Luke Tsai