
5

"A rare omakase that feels special and attainable, this 14-course, $129 tasting unfolds in a cozy, below-street-level room at 196 Prince Street in Soho, led by chef Ben Chen and owner Emily Lin, with Kevin Wei managing and acting as sommelier; nearly all of the fish is flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market, making this polished, intimate neighborhood spot feel worth the price. The Ouji omakase brings a set of small starters; ikura don topped with Hokkaido bafun uni; silky chawanmushi; nine pieces of seasonal nigiri; toro and tuna futomaki; and dessert with tea. Uni add-ons, when available, typically range from $10 to $20 per piece, and with shipments from Toyosu arriving multiple times a week, if Hokkaido trays are presented, order them. Plan on sake: the list spans rich junmai, lighter ginjo, and smooth daiginjo styles, plus a few specialty bottles; start crisp and dry, then segue into something rounder for toro and futomaki — midway through my meal, Kevin Wei poured an exciting new sake, the Modern, dry with a slightly fruity finish. A 12-seat L-shaped counter anchors the small, wood-trimmed room; lighting is a bit bright, and the team is attentive without fuss, so it reads like a Soho secret rather than a scene. Solo diners fit right in, as do date nights, helped by a room tucked behind a curtain and down a short set of stairs; the trio of women next to me was there for the second time during their weeklong visit from London. Weekday early seatings are the best bet for a quieter pass through the menu; there’s a 24-hour cancellation fee policy, and asking for counter seats on Chen’s side gets you a little narration with your nigiri." - Melissa McCart