
9
"A good fish and chip shop has to understand what fish and chips is about. There is no point trying to gussy it up. No one wants ikejime battered haddock, and even fewer people want to pay anything more than £10 to fill themselves up on a Friday. Fladda in Camberwell gets this, but isn’t shy to make improvements and alterations, which is where it just edges Camberwell’s other good chippy (Deep Sea on Vestry Road). Anonymous ‘chip shop’ sausages and pert, scarlet saveloys sit alongside battered sausages from The Butchery; homemade steak and ale pies alongside Pukka; whole fish fillets alongside a £5 fish bites and chips deal celebrating fish off-cuts that Josh Niland could be proud of. There is bread and butter. There is gravy. There is battered halloumi. There is even a pretty decent, if decadently, doubly oily, mackerel sandwich to get through the new Brexit-induced glut. Everything is expertly fried, with golden brown crunchy chips ... And... Are those scraps in the back? On hearing the words “anchovy mayo,” it’s even possible to forgive the mint in the mushy peas." - Jonathan Nunn