NYC Critics Are Not Feeling the Four Seasons Reboot | Eater
"After a two-year closure and relocation from its longtime home in the Seagram Building, this storied Midtown institution returned to mixed-to-disparaging reviews: critics Pete Wells and Adam Platt each awarded it one star. Both acknowledged strong cooking under executive chef Diego Garcia — citing a “flawless” Dover sole and indulgent sea urchin ravioli — but criticized a dated, retro dining room (including pink marble bathrooms) and an atmosphere that feels tailored to an elite clientele. Reviewers also highlighted steep prices (for example, $25 cocktails and a $52 crab cake) and questioned whether the restaurant’s vibe is welcoming to anyone outside the ultra-wealthy “plutocrats who lunch” set. The reboot’s reception is further clouded by the history of co-owner Julian Niccolini, who has been accused by multiple women of sexual misconduct and in one instance pleaded guilty to assault, a past that many say will make dining there difficult for some. Nevertheless, celebrities, socialites, influencers, and longtime regulars such as Martha Stewart have embraced the comeback, suggesting it will continue to appeal to the very privileged." - Whitney Filloon
