The 38 Best Restaurants in Los Angeles

"Even with its counter dormant during a 2023 remodel, Gilberto Cetina’s jewel box of a mariscos restaurant, Holbox (pronounced ol-bosh), kept crowds gathered just outside the doors of Mercado La Paloma with a truck parked in front. There, diners could order from a tightened menu that included some of the 6-year-old restaurant’s greatest hits: the taco de pulpo en su tinta, “su tinta” referencing the ink-stained sofrito the curled octopus tentacle rests upon; limey, lip-puckering aguachiles and cocteles served with tostadas and Saladitas crackers, respectively; a smoked kanpachi tostada topped with bay scallop and zigzags of a nutty chile de arbol sauce. Its $115 8-course tasting menu, which features a rotating selection of Cetina’s most-loved dishes, returned last spring with a few more seats at the counter. Still, after its Michelin star recognition in 2024, better to make a reservation for the two dinnertime seatings, which are held on Thursdays and Fridays at 6 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. only. — Nicole Adlman, cities manager" - Eater Staff