The King Of Meat

Review: The King of Fish Versus the King of Meat | Eater NY

"Afterwards we crossed to the King of Meat at 4408 Fifth Avenue near 44th Street, the steak “taqueria” coronated almost three years after the fish spot; it has the same feel and layout as its older sibling but darker, with a classic rock soundtrack and no courtyard, so we sat at the bar. Although the menu offers steaks up to $48 (tomahawk, NY strip, ribeye), we stuck with tacos and started with a chorizo-laced queso fundido ($13) served in a cast-iron pan with freshly fried tortilla chips, which impressed us. The tacos used the same homemade tortillas as the seafood place, though they tasted like they’d been made yesterday. Of the steak tacos, the ribeye ($8) was flavorful but a little tough and not minced finely enough, and the Benjamins (an oven-cooked steak taco, $7) was similar and only marginally better for being cheaper; two others were standouts: the Dude (steak, bacon, cheese, and sautéed onions) and the Psycho (a whole steak-stuffed jalapeño oozing queso). I adored those two tacos and would make a special trip for them, even though I preferred the fish tacos overall." - Robert Sietsema