In Goa, Purumenth Has Taken on a New Meaning During COVID-19 | Eater

"Led by chef-owner Avinash Martins, this restaurant champions a return to seasonal, locally sourced preservation practices: the team now makes and stores pickles, preserved fish, chiles, and salt as part of a deliberate, small-batch approach. Martins — who became especially attentive to food safety after the 2018 formalin-in-fish scare — frames these methods as “the new gourmet,” valuing organic, low–carbon-footprint produce and self-reliance. During the COVID lockdown he leaned into this ethos, using traditional preservation techniques to ensure supplies and to reconnect modern dining with ancestral cycles of preparation." - Joanna Lobo