
1

"Hidden under a lemon-yellow tarp in the parking lot of an old print shop a half block south of Slauson Avenue, I found Taxco Gro., a humming street stand serving a rare Taxco-style barbacoa de chivo. The pitmaster, Julio Jaimes — a former Mexico City police officer who learned the craft from his wife, Micaela — runs a dawn line of customers and cooks goat slowly in the ancestral pit method, producing a rich consomé and delicacies like consomé con pata with fresh goat marrow scooped from the bone, chopped sesos, and sweet, fragrant pancita slathered in a brick-red adobo. It’s a true early-morning ritual: arrive before 10 a.m. for the best cuts, since regulars in the know strip most of the goat off the bone by mid-morning." - Bill Esparza