"When Andy Nguyen Restaurant opened its doors in Sacramento in 1984, its menu reflected the culinary habits of a newly emigrated Vietnamese family still under the influence of French colonial rule. The restaurant offered coq au vin, duck a l’orange, and seafood bouillabaisse alongside fresh spring rolls and pho. Over time, though, customers came to prefer the latter set of dishes, and the owners listened, veering away from French-inspired Vietnamese food and leaning into the ones they grew up eating in Saigon. Fast-forward a few more years to an inspiring trip to India and conversion to Buddhism, and the Nguyen family pivoted again to an entirely vegetarian menu. Mushrooms abound at Andy Nguyen’s Vegetarian Restaurant: Tempura blue oysters crusted in sesame seeds and served with a creamy Sriracha dipping sauce are a filling small plate with layers of crunch; for a subtler interpretation, try the sea salt smoked oyster mushrooms with a simple slaw." - Tamerra Griffin
