

8

"Comforting, exciting, and well-made, the Korean-and-Taiwanese plates at Menlo Park newcomer Yeobo, Darling make fine dining feel approachable. Among the smaller, upscale bites, the chicken liver tartlet pops with citrusy pineapple, and neatly wrapped pieces of amberjack are similarly surprising with lime. The larger crispy anchovy rice—just $19—serves as an accessible medley of umami, a warming bowl of fishy, carby goodness. The chicken wings are an ideal order to share, straight-up and unfussy, and the fried chicken is a meat-and-potatoes rendition for all of us. The space reads as a chic neighborhood restaurant—highly aestheticized and living up to the hype—with outstanding, friendly service and lots of check-ins, plus a bar for those rolling solo. Make this a destination drive, and for locals, head in for casual after-work dinner bites and drinks." - Paolo Bicchieri