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"Long before Impossible Burger and other tech startups got into headline-attracting plant-based patties, old-school Asian restaurants were championing tofu and mock meats for Buddhist customers. In Cabramatta, eateries serving this unshowy fare have been a fixture for decades. At An Lac, Vietnamese dishes known for their meaty or seafood flavors have been translated in vegan-friendly ways, from slurpable bun bo hue to bun rieu." - Lee Tran Lam