La Vaquera Opens in San Juan Capistrano With a Rustic Wood-Fired Menu | Eater LA

"Opened October 29 by Acme Hospitality (Loquita, the Lark, Lucky Penny) in the River Street Marketplace/Los Rios District of San Juan Capistrano, this breezy, wood-fired destination from chef Aaron Zimmer (formerly of the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay) assembles a ranchero-style menu of steaks, butterflied fish, beans, crudo, and grilled little gem greens using approachable California ingredients for a suburban crowd. The Doug Washington–designed space features soaring vaulted ceilings, an airy indoor-outdoor dining room, a spacious bar with an accompanying outdoor lounge and fire pit, and a serene California coastal relaxation vibe set among family-friendly retail like Seager and Tecovas and even a petting zoo. Starters include a hand-chopped wagyu beef tartare with grilled sourdough and pumpkin seeds, a hamachi crudo with grilled avocado slices, and a nicely grilled Spanish octopus leg with al dente scarlet runner beans and charred onion. An 11-foot oak grill spans half of the window-covered kitchen, flames licking New York steaks, Mary’s heirloom spatchcocked chicken, and whole striped bass; sides include ranch-style beans, cast iron–baked cornbread with queso Oaxaca and roasted poblano peppers, and roasted cabbage with lime crema. “Even during its first weekend, the entrees and sides were polished and executed to a high level.” Cocktails are visually appealing and approachable, from a pink strawberry pisco sour called La Fresca to an espresso martini called Let’s Ride that mixes coconut, creme de cacao, and amaro for a bitter finish, and the wine list reflects Acme’s Santa Barbara home base with options like Monte Xanic Sauvignon Blanc from Valle de Guadalupe and Thatcher Winery Cabernet Franc from Paso Robles. Acme Hospitality founder and managing partner Sherry Villanueva was on-site shaking hands and familiarizing herself with the San Juan Capistrano crowd; Acme is already planning to open its casual pizzeria Lucky Penny in the development. Smaller operators like Heritage Barbecue are likewise putting the town on the larger Southern California map, and, as Matthew Kang (lead editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest) observed, the project helps confirm that San Juan Capistrano is one of the hottest dining neighborhoods in Orange County. Hours: Sunday–Thursday 4 p.m.–9 p.m.; Friday–Saturday 4 p.m.–10 p.m.; small afternoon menu daily 2 p.m.–4 p.m.; brunch Wednesday–Sunday 11 a.m.–2 p.m." - Matthew Kang