CHILI

Cafe China Is Now Open in a New Location | Eater NY

"The restaurant that reopened in Cafe China’s old space at 13 E. 37th Street keeps the same yellow awning and some similar (if kitchnier) décor, and while its food is distinguished it differs noticeably from Cafe China: the pork dumplings in chili oil were too thick-skinned, the tableside-tossed dan dan noodles were too thin and soft, and the mapo tofu was too soft and creamy though more subtly spiced and brightened by lots of leeks, dispelling the idea of a menu rip-off even as the original owners accused it of being a copycat. Two entrees stood out brilliantly: the tea-smoked duck arrived theatrically under a dome in a cloud of smoke and was charred and dramatic, and the cumin lamb was one of the city’s best, with large soft swatches of heavily peppered meat punctuated by thin Chinese celery. I left with my mouth burning but eager to keep both restaurants in my rotation for Sichuan cravings." - Robert Sietsema