Agrobeso African Cuisine

Peckham’s Best Restaurants | Where to Eat in Peckham and Peckham Rye | Eater London

"The smallest differences lead to the most profound disagreements; just see the history of schisms in the Christian church, or ask a north and south Londoner their opinion on Morleys vs Sam’s. The West African jollof rice debate has always been slightly tongue in cheek, but the towers of meat pies on the counter and egusi and efo riro soups on the menu at the Ghanaian takeaway Agrobeso on Peckham High Street show that parts of Nigerian and Ghanaian cuisines can be mapped over each other without friction. Plus, it’s just good business. But, it’s odds on that diners are really here for kenkey, that fermented maize staple wrapped in husks of corn, sourer than sourdough, ready to be thumbed into ground pepper sauce, sardines, and fried fish with chewy jerkified edges. Because there are newborns smaller than the portion, it’s worth saving some for a peanut soup, creamy and soothing and hiding on the bone mutton, or getting a portion of pliable banku, roughly the size of Joshua Buatsi’s clenched glove." - Jonathan Nunn