London’s Restaurant Critics Were Causing Trouble in All Sorts of Ways Last Week | Eater London

"Tucked into a clubby, velvet-and-leather dining room with carved hunting panels and feathered lamps, this place aims for an indulgent, boozy long lunch and largely delivers on the old-school food: beautifully silky soup, exceptional bread-and-butter, and a starkly presented game pie (pheasant with smoked sausage) that reviewers called “a beautiful thing.” Attempts at modern touches — a deconstructed lemon meringue and a riff on the full English — feel hackneyed, and service undermines the experience at times: starchy, upsell-prone staff, cruise-ship jazz muzak, two dishes nearly stone-cold, and a fiddliness on the plate that prevents the comfortably replete state of a true capital-L Lunch, leaving the critic ultimately dissatisfied." - George Reynolds