

12

"Plant-filled and tucked inside the Hauser & Wirth art gallery in the Arts District, this hyperseasonal Southern comfort spot offers a sunny, upscale garden-party vibe that pops against the industrial neighborhood. The on-site organic garden surrounds the dining area and supplies herbs and greens for the menu, while small Southern California growers fill out the rest; skylights and string lights bathe the space in a warm glow, and the outside gallery shows commissioned works by Paul McCarthy, Mark Bradford, and Raymond Pettibon. Known for a lively brunch (with many favorites available at lunch and dinner), we tore through three orders of the cream biscuits; the cast-iron cornbread is a delightful alternative for gluten-sensitive or vegetarian diners. The mammoth pork chop arrives with roasted Jimmy Nardello peppers, whose rare heirloom sweetness and buttery flavor add a bright pop of color, and fig leaf ice cream ends the night creamy and not too sweet, a surprising savory-leaning finale. Drinks skew vegetal, with homemade bitters and tonics; the wine list is curated to complement the menu’s core of acid and smoke, and in our first round the earthy Archie—beet-rested Illegal mezcal, Oro blanco, and lemon—was the clear favorite. As a bonus, antsy kiddos can watch the restaurant’s chickens in the adjoining space; these cool gals even have their own Instagram." - Sarah Medina