"The most difficult-to-find Mexican tamales in Los Angeles hail from Sierra Norte de Puebla from owner Lucia Ortega, who uses hoja de papatla for her tamales. The dark green perennial plant is used by Totonacas, an Indigenous group of which her grandparents were a part. The supply of leaves is limited, so place an order of tamales de mole adobado, made with chile guajillo and chile ancho with a sweet, starchy corn masa finish. Ortega also makes corn husk tamales made with mole dulce (with chocolate and sugar) and queso con rajas with diced tomatoes. There are even rare specialities as frijoles enchilados, a spicy frijol con chicharrón that’s available every day. In addition to the tamales, Ortega has a street stand selling tacos de guisado, and she just opened a permanent location in September 2023 where she serves tamales en hoja de papatla as a tribute to the Totonacas." - Bill Esparza
