"After a brief post-quarantine barbecue detour, Tom Douglas returned the former Etta’s space to its seafood roots, with a rotating slate of featured local oyster farms and a variety of fish preparations. Coho salmon with hazelnut romesco is distinctly PNW, the smoked black cod with fennel jam and sour cream evokes smorrebrod, and white sturgeon caviar service is classic high-roller fare. If you’re thinking, “Caviar? In this economy?!” then try the happy hour fried oyster slider, a delicately battered, flash-fried Hama Hama served with a swoop of bright remoulade on a house-baked pull-apart roll. It sounds simple, but it’s a sleeper hit." - Mark DeJoy