The Best Dishes Eater San Francisco’s Editors Ate in July | Eater SF

"Yes, Maritime Boat Club is a seafood-focused restaurant, but it’s the produce that really shined on my first visit. Beautiful slices of tomato paired with torn shiso leaves, balled melon dressed in tiny elderflowers, the entire dish a gentle pond of tomato water, dots of elderberry shrub and olive oil, was just on of quite a few dishes showing off for our region. But of all the summer produce highlighted on the menu, the baby corn stood out most: a plate of baby corn, husk and tiny kernels charred, giving way to tender cobs that provide a sweet, central, toothsome bite. Steamed, shucked, then grilled, gently cooked before being given the confidence of a sear. Crunchy bits of cranberry beans give the corn another dimension of texture, and the corn was accompanied by a burnt ash sauce and a smooth quenelle of Brokaw avocado puree. It made for a lovely addition, but these seasonal gems, under the hands of Maritime chef Felix Santos, was a treat. He says there’s a small window to get them, so he can’t pass them up when they appear at the farmer’s market. If you, too, like me, mostly only ever experience baby corn through a tin can, this will also make you wonder what else you’re missing out on." - Dianne de Guzman