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"I first became aware of the Astoria taqueria in 2015 when I stepped into Mi Espiguita, intent on copping an abiftektorta; at $7 I knew it would be a very big sandwich. The torta I saw was built on a scored telera roll—something like a ciabatta—slathered with refried beans and heaped with avocado, stringy Oaxacan cheese, and assorted other goodies. While there I noticed a menu section labeled “Super Torta” and ended up with an $8.50 torta huerfana ("orphan sandwich"), a facetiously named assemblage that contained pork roast, a fried egg, ham, and cheese — and that was just the protein part." - Robert Sietsema