
3
"In the Flatiron space I encountered a string of rooms leading deep into the interior with some seating open to the street; the décor echoes the Tribeca outpost with the same faint bronze glow and rows of barro negro clay pots. Also conceived as a homage to Carmen Ramírez Degollado and run by her grandchildren, the menu is nearly identical and highlights Veracruz flavors: a crisp-branzino filet in a tomato, green olive, and caperberry sauce that tastes as fresh as an ocean breeze (no chiles); pollo con mole Xico with a uniquely nutty, fruity mole (I detect prunes) served with leg and thigh and irresistible yellow rice—request more tortillas to soak up the sauce; fideo seco as a puck of noodles with avocado, crema, and Cotija; and the garnachas orizabeñas—my favorite market snack—four fried tortillas with light salsa verde, potatoes, and shredded brisket. Huauzontles arrive as soft fritters in tomato sauce, the flat huarache smothered in salsas and queso seco and topped with precisely cooked ribeye, the tongue tacos fall flat, and the churros come warm and sugary and are outstanding even without dipping sauces." - Robert Sietsema