
6

"After 16 years, this Redwood City favorite has reopened with a much-needed renovation and a refreshed approach aimed at a younger crowd. Co-owner Donato Scotti has stepped out of the kitchen and brought in chef Marco Bertoldo (with experience at Michelin-starred Ristorante Le Calandre, Osteria Degli Amici Figino, and as chef at Poesia), shifting the menu toward shareable plates and a cicchetti-centered bar program to encourage trying more dishes while keeping prices in line. Housemade salumi remains, but new pastas are the draw—pasta patate e Provola, a Naples staple lesser-seen in the Bay Area, and the colore croccante with crisp pork belly and Brentwood corn, which Scotti calls “to die for”; baccala mantecato joins as well, alongside baccala e beitole with red beets and toasted bread and tonno al rafano, a seared ahi tuna with horseradish mayo. A standout addition is pizza al padellino—parbaked in a pan and finished in a wood-burning oven—for a crust that’s “really airy and very fluffy and very light,” with toppings added after baking or split and filled; Scotti notes nobody’s doing this here. With a redesigned bar meant to foster a sense of community, the reboot feels like a step in a new direction while staying rooted in tradition and longtime favorites." - Dianne de Guzman