"Taquero Ian Leyva’s beef barbacoa stand has put northern Mexican pit-roasting on the LA map, in a city that’s more familiar with central and southern lamb and goat barbacoa. Like his contemporaries in Chihuahua, Leyva slowly simmers beef cheeks and tongue in a large pot on a stove top, until the meat melts and fuses together in juicy clumps to spoon onto tacos, lonches (tortas), and into thin burritos. The buttery-rich must-have consomé is the star of the show." - Bill Esparza