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"Ignacio Mattos’s cookbook served as a cheat sheet that helped me understand precisely what I’m tasting at Estela: his avant-garde ricotta dumplings trace their inspiration to Judy Rodgers, the beef tartare gets its savoriness from fish sauce, the fried black rice gains extra depth from dried seafood and green garlic juice, and an odd childhood inspiration (slathering taquitos with Cheez Whiz) led him to pair steak with taleggio — all of which explains why the restaurant feels as cool and inventive as it is." - Eater Staff