
4

"Opulent from the moment you slip through plush curtains, this Lower East Side newcomer subverts the clubstaurant stereotype with house and electronic playlists kept at a perfect, conversation-friendly volume, Damien Hirst butterfly mandalas, a zebra-striped rug, a curved copper ceiling, and flower-laden green mohair banquettes—though, yes, I did spot a couple making out two tables over. Nur Khan often hangs at the bar, and the excellent cocktail program from Charlotte Voisey proves it: we started at the bar with my companion’s Coupe de Grace (Hendrick’s gin, soju, lychee, elderflower), super‑floral and delightful, while my Pillow Talk—basically a cognac Manhattan with rosé vermouth—carried lovely vanilla notes; after dinner we each had a Smoke Show, a torch‑smoked tequila‑mezcal drink evoking a Mexican temazcal that Khan calls his “baby.” The wine list isn’t expansive but it’s interesting; a sommelier‑recommended Schioppettino hit the spot, and a fantastic Sauternes paired beautifully with dessert. Richard Farnabe’s French American cooking aims to bring Upper East Side polish downtown: starters leaned more clever than craveable (a beautiful‑but‑okay tuna tartare and a creative mushroom–foie gras–artichoke mille‑feuille whose flavors didn’t fully mesh), but the entrees soared—the madai sea bream was perfectly grilled with crisp skin over a saffron‑punchy bouillabaisse sauce, and the Colorado rack of lamb arrived crowned with meltingly tender shredded shoulder, bone marrow bordelaise, and a crispy maitake for texture. Don’t skip dessert: the Paris‑Brest eats like beignets stuffed with popcorn‑praline cream and topped with candied popcorn, especially good with Sauternes, and anything with caviar tends to be a winner. With a planned downstairs lounge boasting a separate entrance, custom sound, and setup for DJs and live music, I might not bring my septuagenarian parents, but for striking the balance between scene‑y and refined, this place largely nails it." - Justin Goldman