"When Kitakata Ramen Ban Nai opened its first Los Angeles location on March 1 in Torrance, I saw immense lines with customers waiting up to an hour for a taste; diners waited outside for it to open at 11 a.m. on Monday, March 4, and the dining room was full by noon. The Japan-based chain, which first opened stateside in Costa Mesa in 2014 and expanded across Orange County to Buena Park, Fountain Valley, and Irvine, traces its ramen style to Kitakata in Fukushima where a 19-year-old Chinese immigrant named Bankinsei began serving shina soba in 1927; the modern brand was founded in 1958 by husband-and-wife Shingo and Hisa Ban Nai and grew with chef Akira Nakahara in the late 1980s, and there are currently 57 locations in Japan. What distinguishes Kitakata is the pork-based broth that’s clear and almost devoid of visible fat—lighter but still flavorful—paired with wavy, thick, slightly chewy noodles that soak up the broth more than standard ramen noodles, and fatty pork chashu slices placed in a circle for optimal presentation. The menu includes a green chile and scallion-topped shio version that brings a spicy flair, a sweet-salty miso, a spicy miso broth, a creamy spice-tinted tan tan, a vegan miso ramen topped with seasoned tofu, and a dipping-style tsukemen, with sides such as stellar fried gyoza, crisp karaage chicken pieces, takoyaki, and a saucy pork bun. Located on Pacific Coast Highway next to a busy H‑Mart with ample parking, its visible perch should fuel popularity in the South Bay’s already crowded ramen scene." - Matthew Kang