"Originally from New Orleans, Max Levy became interested in Japanese cuisine when he realized it had a lot in common with what he grew up eating — fish and rice. Although Japanese in principle, Levy’s food has been heavily influenced by China, where he’s been based since 2004 (first in Beijing, then Hong Kong). Housed in a narrow walk-up a stone’s throw from the city’s famous dried herb and seafood markets, Okra features two floors of Levy’s cooking: izakaya-style dining downstairs, and a reservations-only sushi bar upstairs. In both spots, expect Chinese- and Japanese-inspired flavors with a novel spin. Think: aged pigeon marinated in sake, served with Crystal hot sauce — because Louisiana. [$$-$$$$]" - Janice Leung Hayes