"The hand-pulled noodles, the recipe for which comes via co-owner Sia Zhang’s grandmother, are obviously the big-ticket item — they’re chewy and at their best topped with a piquant, tongue-tingling vegetarian take on mapo tofu. But don’t miss the dumplings; the same level of dough finesse is evident in their slightly springy wrappers. You can sip on a limited lineup of interesting drinks downstairs, but it’s worth ascending the mezzanine to Paper Fan Cocktail Bar before or after dinner for the moody, slightly kitschy atmosphere as much as the tea-infused drink list. (Paper Fan is tiny and trendy, so reservations are a good idea.) To cap off the night, duck next door to R&M Dessert Bar for a takeaway tart that will ruin you for all other shortcrust pastry." - Sophie Grossman