
3

"At the Peruvian restaurant Yuyo, I appreciated the “light and airy” decor, which gestures to indigeneity without feeling like cultural appropriation, though some dishes lacked depth. The quinotto swims in a nutty, fragrant broth with vegetables, but I couldn’t get a solid answer on whether it was vegetarian or vegan. The cebiche clásico was a real game-changer: bright, tangy, with a harmonious balance of acid and heat — fleshy, firm striped bass topped with crunchy cancha and microgreens, invigorating and exciting. Drinks-wise, the Purple Drank (pisco and chicha morada) was more exciting to me than the pisco sour, which tasted like triple sec. I was disappointed by the ají de gallina empanadas, which were mushy and tasted off (though I ate the accompanying salsa straight). I’m also worried about the location, which felled Yuyo’s parent company’s burger cantina El Sapo and predecessor Flat Top, but I hold out tentative hope for the restaurant." - Erin Russell