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"Slide along the antique wooden bar at this former warehouse tucked away across from Ensenada’s shipyard, and order one of the best gin and tonics you’ll ever have, made with citrus, Japanese cucumber, wild fennel, and Hendrick’s gin. Then ask for locally farmed Kumamoto oysters, both fresh, and grilled with Ramonetti cheese and tarragon, followed by fried abalone and seaweed, an ode to fish and chips. Either pairs well with a glass of local white wine selected by chef Benito Molina, who’s a pioneer of modern Mexican food, a visionary of contemporary Baja California cuisine, and a damned good sommelier. Once you make your way to a table, continue to imbibe with iconic dishes: a taco of the day, which might consist of octopus, chicharron, and refried black beans; fish of the day, that Baja classic, made with rockfish; or Molina’s riffs on traditional Baja California quail, a plate of tender breasts with poached quail eggs. [$$$]" - Bill Esparza
