Lawrence Lai, Owner of Iconoclastic San Francisco Bakery Craftsman and Wolves, Dies at 53 | Eater SF
"Opened on Valencia Street in 2012 by Lawrence Lai and Ann Lee after a tea‑importing venture inspired by Lee’s Taiwanese grandfather, the bakery was described by Lee as “a collaboration based on a shared vision for a different patisserie cafe experience and pastry aesthetics.” William Werner, co‑founder and head chef, departed in June 2019, but his recipes — combined with Lai’s aesthetic and design — persisted. The shop became widely known for inventive items such as the Rebel Within muffin—an egg‑stuffed treasure—and cashew curry cookies, and it expanded into a now‑closed Russian Hill location, a farmers‑market outpost in Palo Alto, a second San Francisco spot dubbed the Den on Bayview’s Yosemite Avenue, and an upcoming Mountain View location. Colleagues emphasize Lai’s collaborative, generous spirit in both kitchen and community: executive chef Sam Ceccotti says they would talk “aimlessly about everything for hours and it would feel as if only minutes had passed,” and that “Lawrence is that once‑in‑a‑lifetime person. My heart will forever bear a scar knowing that I can never have those conversations or experiences with him again in this life.” Ceccotti adds, “My hope is that I can keep Lawrence’s vision for [the bakery] alive and well by honoring what he built and continue to add to his legacy.” Community partners recall frequent acts of support: Lai sent free pastries to organizations including the Women’s Building, 826 Valencia, Foodwise, and Lyon Martin Community Services, and he opened his space to 826 Valencia students — whose dream‑cake writings were turned into paperback books and then into custom cakes for the students to eat; for National Poetry Month student poems were printed on custom coffee sleeves; and, for 826 Valencia’s 20th birthday party, Lai had a blueberry cake made for the block party. “I remember him being so open and supportive of our students,” says Maya Makker of 826 Valencia. “He was energized by the idea of sharing their work. He was a champion for us.” Lulu Meyer of Foodwise called him “thoughtful and innovative,” noting that he was “a supportive presence for our work, the local farmers, and was a regular face at the Ferry Plaza market. He was a class act through and through, and a loss for us all in San Francisco.” Neighbors and peers also attest to his local impact: Bernal Cutlery co‑owner Kelly Kozak said, “Lawrence was a huge part of my pandemic and post‑pandemic landscape in the Mission and really helped me feel less alone as a small business owner... He was such a treasure to the block, and he will be greatly missed.” Other Bay Area bakers point to the bakery’s visual and technical influence—Max Blachman‑Gentile says it influenced creativity and “what might go between sheets of laminated dough,” while pastry chef Ellie Estrada‑Londo recalls being “[I was] awestruck at what beautiful, creative and thoughtful pasties were being made there,” adding, “How every layer of lamination, glistened yet had such gritty only‑in‑sf character. They definitely helped activate the ‘aha moment’ of what beautiful savory pastries could be.” Lai’s own emphasis on presentation and teamwork is captured in his line, “We eat with our eyes first,” and in his remark, “I chose [the bakery] because craftsman represents the individual pursuit of perfection, and wolves means the team spirit we need to have achieve a common goal.”" - Paolo Bicchieri
