"A heavy ceramic bowl of tonkotsu ramen starts with a heady base of pork and fish paitan augmented with shoyu tare with a tangle of bouncy ramen noodles resting under a shower of negi (shredded green onions) and an inky black slick garlic oil. A jiggy hunk of pork belly, a pinch of peppery mustard greens, and a custardy half ajitama were all the extra toppings this satiating bowl required. By the time my spoon was scraping the bottom, I was already wishing I had room for more." - Paolo Bicchieri