
3

"Descending into a narrow, secretive space in downtown Sacramento, I had a heavy tonkotsu ramen built on pork-and-fish paitan with shoyu tare, an inky black garlic oil, a tangle of bouncy noodles, a tender hunk of pork belly, peppery mustard greens and a custardy ajitama — a deeply satisfying bowl that made me wish I had room for more." - Paolo Bicchieri