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"A bodega that transformed itself into a taqueria, it still stocks groceries (cookies, flan, chorizos, eggs, and instant michelada mix — paper cup included). I loved the pork-and-cheese torta ($7.50): a long crusty roll slathered with crema and piled high with thin-sliced head cheese that was rubbery and garlicky, plus shredded cheese, avocado, lettuce, and onions. Even more striking were the entomatadas ($14): tortillas folded over twice and smothered in a simple fresh tomato sauce then squirted with crema; the sauce had a slight kick of green chiles and the tortillas had been lightly fried in lard, so the flavor felt both fresh and piggy. A choice of meats came on the side, but I found the entomatadas so good I barely needed them." - Robert Sietsema