"An atmospheric old building beside the small River Eea in Cartmel is the home of Simon Rogan’s ‘relaxed neighbourhood restaurant’. Rogan & Co got its first Michelin star in October 2018 and while it may be a different beast from L’Enclume — with à la carte two- and three-course menus rather than tastings — the commitment to flavour and invention is every bit as intense. Much produce comes from the Rogan farm/garden in Cartmel and further afield in the county so, for a perfect four-course meal, diners might go for a snack of lamb croquette and damson, a wood pigeon and beetroot starter, a main course of aged short rib of beef, and a dessert of dark chocolate fondant and apple marigold custard. The lunch menu here is great value." - Christian Dymond