What to Order at Honzen in Astoria, a Display of an Older Style of Japanese Dining | Eater NY
"Chef and owner Jay Zheng, who first opened the sushi restaurant Gaijin, then reopened it as Kōyō — which offered set omakase menus, inspired by the traditional flavor progressions in kaiseki cuisine — and opened omakase restaurant Tsubame in Tribeca in 2023, recently flipped the space into a honzen ryōri–focused restaurant. "This classical dining form, emerging from the Muromachi period (13th to 14th century), stands as a cornerstone in the evolution of Kaiseki cuisine," writes the restaurant's website. The spot serves only set honzen-ryōri plates with price determined by choice of protein: options skew seafood (simmered red sea bream, marinated Hokkaido scallops, blue mackerel) though there is also an A5 wagyu option; each meal comes with miso soup, spinach in sesame dressing, simmered vegetables like kabocha squash and lotus root, seasonal pickles, and sashimi, plus a cube of tofu topped with Hokkaido uni that had the marvelous effect of tasting almost like peanut butter. Trays come with rice (standard mixed rice at no extra cost), but budget for upgrades between $26 and $55 for bowls brimming in salmon roe or draped in bluefin tuna or uni; the showstopper is absolutely the Hikinuku Don, a blend of ground beef and pork cooked in a burger and topped with a marigold-orange egg yolk, meant to dramatically ooze over the dish. A full meal can easily come in at under $75 a person, including drinks, and even the most extravagant add-ons won’t land too much over $100. The space is separated into two rooms — a narrow front room of chic blonde wood with a counter and a few tables against the wall, and a wider back room converted from a backyard with its own counter, small tables, a lounge area, and a larger table with floor seating; overhead lights are a little bright and the music skews "lo-fi beats to study to." Each bite is nestled in its own beautiful ceramic, making it feel like you’re eating out of a jewel box. The drink menu is intentionally tight: sake is the only alcoholic option, with ample junmais and daiginjos available by the glass and in small and large bottles served out of handmade ceramics, plus a short selection of tea and soda." - Jaya Saxena
