On the Tiny Island of Pantelleria, Heroic Viticulture Produces Some of the Best Wines in the World — But it Isn't Easy

"A leading Sicilian family-run winery, now represented by a sixth-generation family member with Antonio Rallo as winemaker and CEO, it has championed wines born of the island's heroic viticulture—most famously the Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé. The producer vinifies the island's Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria) in three distinct styles: Lighea, a dry white with orange blossom, bergamot and a mineral finish; Kabir, a sweet-yet-fresh Moscato with notes of passionfruit and orange blossom; and Ben Ryé, an intensely rich Passito with an amber hue, a complex aromatic bouquet and honeyed notes that deepen with age. The operation emphasizes terraced, sustainable practices that protect biodiversity and yield wines noted for concentrated flavors, freshness and a distinct mineral backbone." - Laura Itzkowitz