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"A late-night refuge bathed in red-and-green neon that, when empty save for a few patrons, can feel oddly comforting; in one anecdote the bartender—unfamiliar with a Negroni—improvises under pressure and serves a martini on the rocks, which helps calm a shaken, post-accident customer and underscores the chain's role as an unfussy haven in a crisis." - Gaby Grossman