House Is a New, French-Influenced Omakase Counter

"Tucked behind an unmarked sliding teahouse door at the back of a Greenpoint warehouse, this intimate eight-seat space centers on a long wooden tasting counter and an open kitchen where chef Yuji Tani serves a nine-course tasting menu ($180). Courses blend Japanese ingredients and techniques with classic French sensibilities: a monaka-style snack of apple compote and foie gras mousse; lightly cooked Spanish mackerel rolled with bonito flakes and sesame over coarsely grated daikon; Tani’s signature burrata with pomegranate, olive oil and a cagelike strawberry tuile that is smashed into the cheese; tender leeks topped with barely warm wagyu and toasted breadcrumbs; red snapper on a bull’s-eye of dill aioli with a surrounding broth; venison enfolded in savoy cabbage on a koji–cashew cream with pistachios; and a communal foie gras pilaf of Japanese rice and pickles that the chef stirs until each grain is glazed. Decorative touches such as an antique cabinet brought from Japan and heavy earthenware plates foster a cozy, home-kitchen feeling in a busy neighborhood. Though rooted in fine-dining tradition, the cooking feels personal and forward-looking — even the foie gras reflects Tani’s attempt to reconcile his own preferences (he tried to remove it from the menu and instead reworked it with teriyaki umami and pickles for crunch)." - Tammie Teclemariam, Beth Sacca