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"At Daniel Boulud’s expense-account playground the La Tête d’Or prime-rib trolley slow-roasts Texan rib for eight hours so the fat stays jellied and the meat remains pink; the steep $130 ten-ounce slab comes with wine-rich Bordelaise, pommes purées, creamed spinach, and a Wiffle-ball-size popover." - Alan Sytsma