"A Ridgewood café that transitioned from hosting occasional pop-ups to becoming the permanent professional home for chef Kate Telfeyan, now serving brunch, lunch, sausage buns and weekday–weekend dinners with a concise six-dish menu drawing on Korean, Sichuanese, and Taiwanese flavors. The menu resists strict appetizer/entrée distinctions and features substantial dishes such as a steamed whole fish inspired by suan cai yu with Sichuan peppercorns and house pickled mustard greens; a nori-fried pork chop riffing on Taiwanese pork chop and Central Asian skewers, served with raw white onion, long hot pepper, pickled mustard greens, and fried Thai basil; and black-pepper prawns with rice cakes, celtuce, cucumber, and salted chili. Lighter items include herbal chicken and mugwort wontons over a sesame-yuzu chimichurri, a seasonal stir-fry of Asian greens with mint and an umeboshi-shallot vinaigrette, and hot-and-sour potatoes. The operation emphasizes fair pay and a healthier kitchen culture, with most of the small staff having worked with the chef previously." - Chris Crowley