"A storied, mid-century–rooted dining room distinguished as much by its architecture and design pedigree as by its food, this place occupies an iconic building with references to the Seagram Building and features signature woven-aluminum curtains that soften the avenue lights. Celebrated architects and a high-profile real-estate backer shaped the space, and a prominent restaurant group runs its operations, lending it an air of institutional polish, formality and Old‑New York gravitas. The suspended, spaceship-like dining room, coordinated service and classic glamour make it an enduring symbol of mid-century urban dining and a natural point of comparison for newer, flashier neighbors." - Matthew Schneier