"You’d never guess what luxury lies hidden behind the stone walls at the summit of Eze, a tiny pedestrianised village 400m above the Med. We should have suspected, though, when a smiling valet relieved us of our car and bags, and sent us on our way through the winding streets. Stepping through the hotel’s tiny front door, we were ushered onto a private terrace to marvel at the dramatic views of the French Riviera: a jaw-dropping experience. Champagne cocktails materialised and we sat, sipped and stared. The following morning, lounging in our gilded bed, monogrammed fireplace to our right, we stared again, this time at the sun dancing on the waves beyond our window.Four-hundred-year-old Chateau Eza was once Prince William of Sweden’s private winter residence, but now - luckily for us - it's a fabulous restaurant and retreat, filled with princely extravagances for couples in search of pure indulgence. The old wine cellar became a dining area with panoramic vistas, the library a cosseting guest room, the Prince’s bedroom a sprawling suite. Decadence continues beyond the hotel walls: down on the coast are beaches lined with beautiful people and marinas full of gleaming yachts, while up in the hills are old-world towns, gorgeous gardens and heady lavender fields. Highs The food - manager Robin insisted we try Eza's tasting menu for the full French-Mediterranean dining experience, and we're so glad we did!The rooms and suites make you feel like royalty: grand mirrors, plum velvet, marble bathrooms, king- or queensize beds and lots of lovely little touchesThe vistas along the coast are breathtaking, and most rooms have at least partial sea views and balconiesDespite sitting in a small pedestrianised village, the hotel has valet parking so it's easy to do day trips to Nice, Monaco, Grasse, and even Cannes or St TropezEze is a magical village - explore at night for added romance, and don't miss the pretty Jardin Exotique (book through i-escape for free entry) Lows This level of luxury doesn’t come cheap, especially on the Côte d'Azur. But you are staying in a genuine palace The village can get crowded with visitors and the walk to the beach below is a steep one, but there's a bus for the ascent back upStandard Rooms lack balconies and sea views, and some of the other rooms' balconies are slightly overlookedThere's no poolThe restaurant is closed on Monday & Tuesday in winter" - Emily McDonnell