"Spetses is truly the 'island of aromas': lemon trees dot the pebbled lanes, pine forests scent the hills and the old harbour is awash with the tang of salt water, fresh paint and seafood. But one thing you won't smell is fumes: there are only a handful of cars on the island; most visitors get about by horse-drawn buggy or bicycle. No surprise, then, that the Athenians flock here at weekends - it's 2 hours by hydrofoil from Piraeus.Set close to the old harbour, the Orloff is a rare breath of contemporary chic. Hidden within the stone-walled grounds of a 19th century family mansion, its whitewashed buildings housing 21 rooms, suites and maisonettes cluster round a large pool, with pebbled paths and designer deckchairs shaded by ancient olive trees. Inside, cool white walls are brightened by scarlet or ochre cushions, gnarled iron lamps and bedside tables carved from tree trunks. Take a friend or partner and spend a glorious week lazing by the pool, cycling round the island and indulging in delicious Greek food and hospitality. Highs The stunning Mediterranean backdrop: neo-classical houses offset by bright blue skies and green pine treesOwners (and brothers) Christos and Vassilis Orloff are as welcoming as their multi-lingual staffBreakfast is served until 11am Massages and beauty treatments are available - you can even have hydro massage in the poolThe island is car-free - explore by bicycle, moped or horse-drawn buggy instead Lows There's no real restaurant at the hotel, and the nearest eateries are a 10-minute walk away in the old harbourThe busy town centre, Dapia, is a 15-minute walkThose mopeds are driven at breakneck speed - pedestrians take care!Standard rooms don't have much of a viewThe pool is closed daily from 2.30-5.30pm (though sometimes they waive this rule)" - Michael Cullen