Emerson on Hurumzi, Stone Town, Zanzibar - Explore & Book

"This hotel has had a yoyo-ing identity. Back in the 1990s, it was Stone Town's pioneering boutique hotel, founded by (and named after) the American partners Emerson Skeens and Thomas Green. Taking on the tropical rain and sun, African pace and a poor socialist infrastructure, they managed over 10 years to turn a pair of crumbling merchants’ houses into a stylish and luxurious little hotel. In the noughties, the hotel acquired a third building and the name 236 Hurumzi (its street address) - Thomas Green still had an interest, but the service started suffering. Then, in 2013, it reverted to the original name, and came under new management, with just 9 rooms and lower rates. One thing remains constant: the larger, ceremonial bedrooms are among the most atmospheric in Zanzibar. Stained-glass windows and wooden lattice-work throw mysterious patterns over marbled bathtubs and oriental rugs, while vast mosquito nets are draped over carved four-poster beds. The view from the Tea House Restaurant over the motley roofs of Stone Town forms a magical backdrop for a Swahili dinner served at knee-high tables by robed waiters. Highs Most rooms have something special: an open-air bathtub, a galleried balcony overlooking town, painted wooden fretwork or, quite simply, palatial dimensions The location is very central, on a busy but traffic-free lane The rooftop restaurant had a great atmosphere when we last visited The Suites are particularly impressive, with private 'tea house' terraces and lots of space The rates represent good value for money, and the extras (including airport transfers) are very reasonable Lows We have not checked service or food in its latest incarnation, though guest feedback is good There's some noise from the streets (inevitable in central Stone Town) Be prepared for steep stairs and no elevator Stone Town can feel a bit rundown to first-time visitors, but stay a while and you'll find a warm and historically fascinating town" - Michael Cullen