Steak & Grace - Review - Dunwoody - Atlanta - The Infatuation
"If a search query lured you here after looking up “steak restaurants,” know that Dunwoody’s Steak & Grace is barely a steakhouse. You’ll find more filets at an Outback. But true to the other half of their name, you will need to give the American menu some grace as dishes here have the consistency level of a roller coaster. video credit: Starr Rivers photo credit: Courtesy of Steak & Grace photo credit: Courtesy of Steak & Grace photo credit: Courtesy of Steak & Grace video credit: Starr Rivers Pause Unmute The peak here is the very good crab fritter, which is packed full of crab and sits in a pool of cucumbery gazpacho. If you are in a red meat mood, the three just-fine steaks are good enough for a Tuesday night when you couldn’t make it to the grocery store. The prime filet arrives a little chewy with a side of mashed potatoes that’s so small it’s gone in two bites. And while the salmon is cooked to flaky precision, it’s paired with a medley of sour citrus fruits, flavorless bok choy, and a sauce that has no discernible taste. None of this keeps the dining room from filling up—and it's a welcome injection of social buzz and character to the blank canvas walls here. Couples with spray tans and Tommy Bahama shirts converse over fake potted moss plants, and annoyed teens look on when their grandparents spot so-and-so from the golf club. For Dunwoody locals, that all works since it's a decent night out that doesn’t involve a mass-produced menu with a trademark. Food Rundown Shoestring Fries Are these shoestring fries? No—they are regular-sized and not in the least bit skinny. Are they good? Yes. And the garlic chive aioli is the perfect dunking companion. Goat Cheese Stuffed Sweet Peppers Don't expect this appetizer to change your life (though it may kick off a day dream about canapés and 1960s dinner parties). The peppers are pickly sweet, and the goat cheese is tangy—just fine but skippable. PlayMute video credit: Juli Horsford Crab Fritter The fried appetizer comes in a pool of cucumbery gazpacho. The cabbage fennel slaw adds a nice crunch, and the interior is stuffed with crab and zero filler, which we appreciate for the $22 price tag. photo credit: Juli Horsford Prime Filet The 6-ounce steak is a little chewy. The slightly charred carrots and green beans taste exactly how they always do. After two bites the potato puree is gone (the portion is tiny), so it’s hard to know if they’re good or not. photo credit: Courtesy of Steak & Grace Faroe Island Salmon The salmon itself is flaky and meaty. So it’s unfortunate that the rest of the stuff on the plate doesn’t complement it. The citrus medley is sour enough to induce a lip pucker. We’re still unclear on what the brown sauce actually is (it was watery), so don’t expect too much here. photo credit: Courtesy of Steak & Grace" - Juli Horsford
