"The best seat in the house: Any one in the four rounded corners of the Mayfair room. What you’re seeing: Half-melted candles and someone you recognise from TV. It could be the lighting, but it probably isn’t. Dates extend hands across the table, while playing footsie underneath it, and servers float around the room, encouraging diners to order the cheesecake and grinding black pepper onto aubergine parmigiana from a giant mill." - jake missing, sinead cranna, rianne shlebak